Ngalkunburriyaymi (Graveside Gorge) Walk

Why go

If you’re chasing Kakadu’s wild side, this is it: a remote, permit-only bushwalk along a sandstone gorge to clear rock pools and small falls. Expect solitude, big escarpment views, and swims in some of the park’s most pristine waterholes.

The experience

From the Jarrangbarnmi (Koolpin Gorge) campground, you follow the creek upstream into Ngalkunburriyaymi/Graveside Gorge. There’s no formed track—just rock-hopping, occasional scrambling, and creek crossings as you weave through pockets of monsoon rainforest and open woodland beneath Arnhem Land’s sandstone cliffs. Highlights include a chain of crystal pools and cascades, with side detours to named spots like Black Pool and Pink Pool. Navigation is on you; bring a topo map or reliable offline mapping and be self-reliant.

There’s no official distance here. A typical day out is about 5 km (3.1 miles) return if you stick to the lower gorge and a few pools, but many parties wander farther to explore. Plan extra time for swims and slow, careful footwork on the rock.

Difficulty and who it’s for

This is a hard, unmarked bushwalk best for experienced hikers comfortable with route-finding, scrambling, and moving over uneven, sometimes slippery rock. It’s far less trafficked than Kakadu’s headline sites—part of the charm, and part of the commitment.

Nature and culture

You’re walking classic Arnhem Land plateau country: ancient sandstone carved into gorges and natural amphitheaters, with seasonal flows feeding clear plunge pools. Birdlife concentrates around the water, and the gorge shelters lush vegetation amid otherwise open country. Ngalkunburriyaymi holds high cultural importance for Traditional Owners, and access is jointly managed and strictly limited to protect cultural and environmental values—treat the place with care and follow any closures.

Permits, safety, and logistics

• Permit required: Entry to Jarrangbarnmi/Graveside is capped and must be booked in advance through Parks Australia. 4WD access only.
• No facilities and no potable water on the walk. Pack all water, food, and first-aid; mobile reception is unreliable—carry a PLB if you can.
• Crocodile safety: Upper pools are generally considered safest in the dry, but conditions change—always follow current advice and never swim in downstream or unclear water.
• Wet season access is typically not possible due to flooding and track conditions.

Best time to hike

Dry season (roughly May–September) is the window: roads are passable, water is clear, and heat is manageable. Start early to avoid midday bake on the rock and to catch softer light in the gorge. Permit quotas keep crowds low, but spots can book out—plan ahead.

Bottom line

Remote, challenging, and stunning. If you have the skills and a permit, this is one of Kakadu’s most rewarding wilderness days. If you’d prefer a signed, easy stroll, look elsewhere in the park.