The Sharkstooth

Overview

A jagged granite tooth rising to about 12,630 feet above Glacier Gorge, The Sharkstooth is one of the area’s true non‑walkup summits. It’s a classic alpine rock objective for roped climbers and a striking landmark for hikers heading to The Loch, Lake of Glass, and Sky Pond.

What You’ll See

• Climbers get sustained, airy granite with big alpine ambiance.
• Hikers to Sky Pond can spot tiny parties speckled across the face—bring binoculars if you like a little armchair alpinism.

Getting There

Most parties start from the Glacier Gorge Trailhead and head past The Loch into a rocky basin called The Gash. A subtle climbers’ shortcut branches right just after the fourth bridge from the parking area. Expect boulder hopping near the base.

The Classic Climb

• Northeast Ridge: commonly done at 5.6 over roughly five pitches, then about three rappels to descend. Many teams carry double 60 m ropes.
• Route‑finding: around Pitch 3, the standard line trends into a left‑facing dihedral (stays around 5.6); drifting right goes harder but protects well. Natural anchors (horns/flakes) are common.
• Day stats often land around 8 miles round‑trip, ~3,400 feet of gain, and 12–13 hours car‑to‑car for an efficient roped team.

Season & Conditions

Snow can linger in The Gash early to mid‑summer; supportive morning snow may be fast travel, but an ice axe (and sometimes crampons) can be warranted depending on firmness and angle. Late‑season snowfields can turn icy. Strong teams aim to reach the base around sunrise to beat weather and any queues.

Practicalities

There are no facilities at the spire. Use restrooms in the Bear Lake/Glacier Gorge corridor before you start, and pack out everything. Marmots in the basin are notorious gear‑chewers—stash extra items under rocks rather than leaving them exposed.

For Non‑Climbers

You don’t “hike The Sharkstooth” unless you’re roped up. The best way to appreciate it is the Sky Pond hike; the views from Lake of Glass and Sky Pond showcase the tooth perfectly.

Best Time to Visit

• Climbers: pre‑dawn starts are the move—at the base around sunrise. Late July–September typically offers the driest rock, but watch for lingering or refreezing snowfields.
• Viewers/hikers: early mornings on the Sky Pond trail mean cooler temps and fewer crowds, with soft side‑light on the walls.
• Access note: the Bear Lake Road corridor uses timed‑entry permits roughly late May to early October (5 a.m.–6 p.m.); enter before 5 a.m. or plan around the shuttle/reservation system.