John Muir Trail

Overview

The John Muir Trail is a 211-mile Sierra Nevada classic running from Yosemite Valley’s Happy Isles to the summit of Mount Whitney. It shares most of its length with the Pacific Crest Trail, stacking big alpine passes, polished granite, and countless high-country lakes into one sustained, world-class traverse. Expect major elevation—from the low point in Yosemite Valley around 4,000 feet to Mount Whitney at 14,505 feet—so the effort is real, but the payoff is huge.

Direction and Pace

Most thru-hikers go southbound from Yosemite to Whitney to acclimatize gradually—the northern start is lowest, and the highest passes cluster toward the southern end. While outliers can rush it, a realistic, enjoyable pace is about 20–25 days end to end. Within Yosemite, you’ll climb from Happy Isles past big waterfalls toward Little Yosemite Valley, roll through the Sunrise/Cathedral high country into Tuolumne Meadows, then follow mellow Lyell Canyon before committing to alpine terrain toward Donohue Pass—where you exit the park.

Yosemite Starting Points

• Happy Isles (official start): the most competitive permit and a stout opener—over 5,000 feet of gain in the first 12 miles. A backpackers-only campground the night before your permit date helps with staging.
• Glacier Point: harder to access from the Valley but often easier for permits.
• Lyell Canyon (Tuolumne Meadows): you’ll skip the first 23 miles and start at ~8,500 feet—less time to acclimatize but still a beautiful launch.

Permits and Logistics

A Yosemite wilderness permit is required for a continuous JMT. Southbound crossings of Donohue Pass are tightly limited, making those permits scarce—build flexibility into dates and trailheads. Bear canisters are required throughout Yosemite; hanging food isn’t allowed. You can rent canisters at wilderness permit stations, and there are food lockers at Little Yosemite Valley, High Sierra Camps, and the Tuolumne Meadows Backpackers’ Campground. Permit holders may stay one night in backpackers’ campgrounds in Yosemite Valley or Tuolumne Meadows, which is handy for staging or resupply.

For resupply inside the park, post offices in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows accept General Delivery—label packages “hold for hiker until [date]” and note if they contain food. Private carriers don’t deliver to General Delivery addresses. Basic food and camping goods are also sold in the Valley and Tuolumne Meadows. Long-term parking exists in Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows; public buses (like the Mammoth–Yosemite Valley connection) can help with shuttles.

What You’ll See

From the glacially carved granite of Yosemite—domes, meadows, and U‑shaped valleys—to the stark high passes of the southern Sierra, the JMT is a geology lesson underfoot. You’ll thread a string of alpine lakes and wide-open basins, with the route’s highest and most sustained passes arriving after you’ve left the park and are well into your stride.

Best Time to Hike

The sweet spot is typically mid-summer into early fall, but the real answer is “it depends.” Big-snow years push safe window later; snow and ice can linger on high passes well into summer, and runoff can make creek crossings serious. Plan to climb high passes early in the day—afternoon storms are common in the mountains. Flex your dates to sidestep late-season closures or smoke if needed.

Real Talk

It’s strenuous, permit-scarce, and conditions swing with snow and fire seasons. But if you want the Sierra’s greatest hits in one continuous line—with a logical acclimatization curve by starting in Yosemite—this is the one.