Wilkin Valley Track

Overview

The Wilkin Valley Track is a classic river‑valley tramp to Top Forks in the heart of Mount Aspiring’s backcountry. Expect rough forest, open river flats, slips and ravines, and unbridged rivers that call the shots. One‑way distance to Top Forks Hut is about 30 km (18.6 miles); many parties make this an out‑and‑back (roughly 37+ miles total) with a rest day for the alpine lakes.

Route breakdown

• Wilkin Road (off SH6) → Kerin Forks Hut: 15 km, 4–5 hr. You start by carefully fording the Makarora River, then follow the true left of the Wilkin through rough lower‑valley forest before it opens to river flats. Kerin Forks Hut sits on the true right of the Wilkin, so you’ll need another river crossing to reach it. Only attempt these fords with solid river‑crossing skills; be ready to wait if levels are high.
• Kerin Forks Hut → Top Forks Hut: 15 km, 6–8 hr. The track heads through beech/tawhai, negotiates slips and steep ravines, then eases across Wonderland flats before climbing above the river and dropping to Jumboland flats. From here it’s unmarked river‑flat travel to the north/south branch junction. In low flows an unmarked true‑right route involves several fords; if high, follow markers over a hill. Top Forks Hut (around 600 m) is on the true right of the South Branch.

Side trips from Top Forks (North Branch)

• Lake Diana: ~1 hr.
• Lake Lucidus (moraine lake): ~1 hr 30 min.
• Lake Castalia: 3–4 hr (final 200 m on loose rock; take care).

These options cross the South Branch and follow the North Branch with boulder hopping (slippery when wet) and a potentially tricky side stream.

Serious traverse option (experienced only)

The Wilkin Valley–East Matukituki traverse via Waterfall Face and Rabbit Pass carries significant year‑round hazards and may require mountaineering techniques. Attempt only in good conditions. Top Forks Hut → Ruth Flat: 8–10 hr with very steep, exposed terrain and a dangerous rock slide section. Ruth Flat → Cameron Flat: 7–9 hr via Bledisloe Gorge, two 3‑wire bridges, and flats to the West Matukituki (ford near the end or use the upstream bridge if flows are high).

Best time to hike

Weather changes fast year‑round; choose a settled window and be prepared for hypothermia even in summer. Avalanche paths can affect parts of the area typically from May to November; check current advisories and the park forecast before committing.

Logistics and tips

Access is from Wilkin Road off SH6 near Makarora. There is no visitor centre in Makarora—contact Awarua/Haast or Tititea/Mount Aspiring visitor centres for current track, river, and avalanche information. The grassy river flats include leasehold farmland—respect stock and keep to the track. Camping beside huts incurs a nightly fee; elsewhere camp at least 200 m from tracks and follow Leave No Trace, including burying human waste well away from water. Navigation matters here: parts are unmarked; carry a map/GPS and know how to use them.

Is it for you?

If you’re fit, comfortable with unbridged river crossings, and want a big valley journey with bonus alpine lakes, this is a superb Wilkin sampler. If river crossings or exposure aren’t your thing, consider stopping at Kerin Forks or saving the traverse for a different trip.