Army Pass Trail

Overview

If you want a true Sierra crest experience without technical climbing, New Army Pass delivers. This high-elevation route links the Cottonwood Lakes Basin on the east with the Rock Creek/Soldier Lake country on the west, topping out around 12,300 feet with sweeping views of Mount Langley and the lake-dotted basins below. Most hikers tackle it as a big, challenging loop pairing Cottonwood Pass with New Army Pass.

Distance and Route Options

The classic loop that samples both sides clocks in at 22.7 miles total with roughly 3,674 feet of gain. Expect a long day (around 10 hours 20 minutes for fit parties) or split it with a backpacking overnight. From the west (Sequoia side), a gentle but steady set of switchbacks climbs from near Lower Soldier Lake to the crest. From the east (Cottonwood Lakes), sandy forest and meadow trails give way to rocky granite switchbacks up to the pass. Variations include a shorter out-and-back to the pass from Cottonwood Lakes, or a west-to-east crossover that descends into Cottonwood Basin.

What You’ll See

Big alpine drama: Mount Langley looming to the north, a string of glittering Cottonwood Lakes to the south, and broad Rock Creek meadows on the Sequoia side. In the right season, the upper slopes pop with wildflowers like Sierra primrose and alpine gold. Night skies in the Cottonwood Basin are superb if you’re backpacking. Water is commonly available along the route (Rock Creek branches, lakes), but always filter.

Difficulty and Conditions

Make no mistake—this is a strenuous high-altitude hike. Thin air above 10,000 feet is the real crux for many. The west-side climb is surprisingly efficient thanks to well-graded switchbacks; the east-side approach includes sandy stretches and rocky upper switchbacks. Early-season lingering snowfields near the crest are common, and winds can be biting. Old Army Pass (unmaintained, north-facing) holds snow much longer and can require ice axe/traction—stick to New Army Pass unless you’re equipped and experienced.

Best Time to Hike

Aim for when the Horseshoe Meadow road is open and the crest is mostly snow-free—typically summer into early fall. Start early for firm morning snow (when present), steadier winds, and more buffer for the distance. Midseason brings the best wildflower show on the upper slopes; mosquitoes can be worse below ~10,500 feet, so consider higher camps if backpacking.

Permits and Regulations

Day hikes do not require a wilderness permit. Overnight trips do require a wilderness permit under the trailhead quota system if you’re camping in the backcountry. Food storage rules apply; carry and use proper bear-resistant storage where required. Pets are not allowed on national park trails; do not bring a dog if your route enters Sequoia.

Tips

• Acclimatize: Spend a night at Horseshoe Meadow before your push if you’re not used to altitude.
• Water strategy: Top off before the final climb to the crest; filtering is essential.
• Navigation: The route is well marked, but in patchy snow near the pass, follow the maintained New Army Pass line and avoid being lured onto steeper, looser terrain.
• Weather: Expect fast-changing alpine conditions. Pack layers, wind protection, and traction if early season.