Skaftafellsheiði Loop (S5)

Overview

This is Skaftafell’s big day out: a roughly 10-mile total loop with about 2,670 feet of gain that strings together basalt-column waterfalls, high heathland, and balcony views over a glacier and its lagoon. It’s a rigorous hike, but the elevation is spread out so it feels steady rather than punishing. Note: on official park signage the Skaftafellsheiði loop is signed S3 (S5 is the separate Sjónarnípa route). Follow the S-numbers on park signs rather than third‑party labels.

Route and highlights

Start at the Skaftafell Visitor Centre and head toward the waterfalls. You’ll pass Hundafoss early—about 78 feet of white water pouring off a gray cliff into lush vegetation—before the headline act at Svartifoss. Svartifoss is framed by striking, inverted columnar basalt: as basalt cools quickly, it fractures into hexagonal columns; when the surrounding material erodes away, those dark organ-pipe walls remain. The spur to Svartifoss alone can take up to two hours roundtrip from the visitor area, which explains the crowds here.

From the falls, climb onto the rock-strewn Skaftafellsheiði plateau for expansive glacier scenery. In clear weather, you can glimpse Morsárfoss—the country’s tallest waterfall—across the Morsá River valley, and look out toward Skeiðarárjökull. The loop semi-circles the jagged Kristínartindar massif, delivering wide, 270-degree views even without the summit. The descent trends toward Sjónarnípa, a dramatic viewpoint over the ash-streaked Skaftafellsjökull glacier and its lagoon dotted with ice chunks, before returning to the Visitor Centre via Austurbrekkur.

Difficulty and who it’s for

It’s a solid, full-day loop for most hikers: long, exposed in places, and with meaningful elevation gain. The most taxing bits are the sustained grade to Svartifoss (steeper than its “easy” reputation suggests) and a long section of loose, uneven scree on the descent—excellent views, but it will chew up tired knees. Trekking poles help a lot.

Best time to hike

Spring mud often closes the Skaftafellsheiði loop until mid-June; always check status at the Visitor Centre before heading out. Shoulder and winter conditions can leave icy stretches on higher sections; bring microspikes if it’s slick and keep well back from cliff edges near Sjónarnípa. Summer brings the best footing and longest days; start early or late to enjoy Svartifoss with fewer people and softer light over the glacier.

Tips

• Go counterclockwise for a friendlier flow: waterfalls first, big plateau views in the middle, and you’ll take the loosest sections as a descent rather than a grind. Poles highly recommended.
• If you’re feeling strong and conditions are safe, you can add the Kristínartindar summit spur (signed S4) for a higher panorama over both glacial tongues; it adds distance and roughly 250 meters of extra gain. The views are already superb without it, so don’t force it in wind or ice.
• Bring layers for fast-changing weather, sturdy waterproof boots, and enough food and water. Binoculars make spotting Morsárfoss more rewarding.

Geology and flora

You’ll hike through heath and shrub birch—yes, actual (short) trees—then onto bare volcanic terrain shaped by repeated eruptions and relentless ice. The stark contrast between dark basalt, green slopes, and blue-white ice is the story of Skaftafell in a single loop.