Pennine Way

A point to point, south to north walk up the spine of northern England, starting at The Old Nags Head in Edale and finishing at Kirk Yetholm in the Scottish Borders. The official full-route convention is 268 miles (431 km), and most walkers take 16 to 19 days. This is a serious multi-day undertaking rather than a long day out, and it rewards people who are happy on rough, exposed ground for hours at a time.

The 268-mile figure adds up every officially recognised line, including both sides of the Bowes Loop, both approaches into Kirk Yetholm, the High Cup Nick alternative and the detour over The Cheviot summit. Nobody walks all of those in one go, so a single end-to-end line comes out nearer 253 miles. The standard main corridor, which is what most route files and mapping show, measures about 258.5 miles and leaves the optional alternatives out. Pick your variants during planning and your own total will land somewhere in that band.

Expect the full range: firm smooth track in places, but also stone flags, wet peat bog, rough tussocky moorland, narrow uneven paths, steep ascents and descents, field paths, stiles and short road links. Sample heights along the route run from around 110 m near the valleys to about 865 m on the high tops, so you are climbing and dropping repeatedly rather than holding one contour. Waterproof boots, gaiters and poles earn their place, and daily mileages that look modest on paper can take much longer than expected in wind or low cloud.

Waymarking uses the National Trail acorn or the trail name, but signs thin out on open moor and in mist. Carry paper maps and a compass and know how to use them, because mobile reception is patchy and should not be your navigation plan. Water can be scarce on the high sections, so carry enough between reliable points and treat anything you take from streams. There is normally no right to wild camp in England and Wales, so ask the landowner or use campsites, bunkhouses, hostels and B&Bs and book ahead in summer.

Dogs can use public rights of way, but much of the route crosses grazing land and moorland with ground-nesting birds, so keep them under close control and on a lead where signs require it. Some enclosed sections have stiles that dogs find awkward. For logistics, Edale has a railway station within walking distance of the start, and Kirk Yetholm is reached by road, so most walkers plan the return journey before setting off. Hawes, Alston and the Teesdale villages make sensible resupply and rest stops.

Upland hay meadows near Teesdale, the waterfalls above Middleton, golden plover and curlew calling across the moors, birds of prey on the fell edges, and the Roman remains along Hadrian's Wall. The quiet stretches between them are a big part of why people remember this walk.

Official section notes are worth trusting. Malham to Horton is popular and challenging with two sustained climbs. Horton to Hawes is remote. Hawes to Tan Hill is a long gradual moorland climb over very exposed ground. Tan Hill to Middleton has few amenities. Middleton to Dufton takes in High Force and High Cup, with a rocky, slippery stretch at Cauldron Snout.