Lecky Glacier

Overview

Lecky Glacier sprawls beneath Mt Chudleigh on the Malte Brun Range, tucked between the Murchison and Tasman valleys. It links with Reay Glacier via the low notch of Reay Col, making it a natural highway for climbers and ski tourers rather than a casual sightseeing stop.

Getting There (Alpine Approaches)

• From the Murchison side (via Onslow Hut): climb through scrub/snowgrass and bluffs to reach the glacier—this is the usual approach to Reay Col (grade II, 2).
• From the Tasman side (Reay Valley): sidle up‑valley to Reay Glacier, cross the rock notch of Reay Col, then drop onto the Lecky.

What You’ll Do Here

• Cross Reay Col between the Lecky and Reay Glaciers to link Tasman and Murchison sides.
• Mountaineering on Mt Chudleigh starts right from the Lecky névé, including the Lecky Glacier Route on the south peak (grade II, 2+) and other east/south‑east face lines.
• In good conditions, parties include the Lecky in a one‑day Malte Brun Range ski traverse, skinning across Burnett to the Lecky, over a ~2450 m col, and descending the Reay to the Beetham area.

Conditions and Hazards

Expect typical Southern Alps objective hazards: crevasses on the glacier, loose late‑summer scree near the col, and bluffed exits down toward the Murchison. Weather and snow/ice change fast, and glaciers here have been retreating in recent decades—get current beta before you commit.

Geology Snapshot

These valleys and basins were carved by glaciation on rapidly uplifted rocks along the Alpine Fault. East of the Main Divide you’ll mostly meet greywacke/argillite; schist dominates to the west. It’s a landscape constantly reshaped by uplift, precipitation, and erosion.

Wildlife

Keep an ear out for kea around high basins, and look for tuke/rock wren among boulders. Down on the Tasman braided riverbed lives the critically endangered kakī/black stilt. Predator control work is ongoing across the park, with new efforts rolling out through 2025–2026.

Best Time to Visit

There’s no single “best” season here—conditions are everything. Aim your trip around a solid weather window and recent snow/ice reports. Late‑summer can mean looser rock and thinner snow bridges; shoulder/winter conditions can suit ski traverses. Always check current alerts before committing.

Planning Tips

• Treat Reay Col as the standard link between the Lecky and Reay Glaciers.
• Approaches involve scrub, bluffs, and complex glacier travel—build in extra time and conservative margins.
• Check alpine club guide pages for route details and Department of Conservation alerts for any closures or helicopter operations that could affect access.