Mystic Pass via Johnston Canyon

This is a big, rewarding push that starts in Banff’s most touristed corridor and ends in true backcountry. From the Johnston Canyon trailhead, you’ll thread metal catwalks through a limestone gorge past the Lower Falls (about 1.1 km from the start) and Upper Falls (about 2.7 km), then continue to the Ink Pots at roughly 5.7 km—cold, colorful mineral springs set in a meadow. Most people turn around here. You don’t.

Beyond the Ink Pots the crowds vanish and the trail narrows to singletrack, rolling through forest and open meadows as you climb toward Mystic Pass in the Sawback Range. Expect a sustained, steeper ascent near the pass. Views open to big country and, in season, wildflowers add color to the alpine meadows. Total distance is about 30.5 km/19 mi roundtrip with roughly 1,100 m/3,600 ft of gain—best tackled by strong day hikers or as a 1–2 day backpack. A short spur (~300 m) beyond the pass leads to quiet, photogenic Mystic Lake, a great lunch or camp spot if you’re staying overnight.

Best time to hike: Late June through September offers the safest pass conditions and the best wildflowers. Outside that window, expect lingering snow and trickier footing on the climb and descent. In any season, start early to beat parking mayhem and shoulder-to-shoulder boardwalk traffic in the canyon; you’ll also have better light in the gorge. If you want to skip the crowds entirely, begin at the nearby Moose Meadows trailhead, which rejoins near Upper Falls but trades the canyon scenery for a quieter forest approach.

What you’ll see: Classic limestone canyon sculpted by water, thundering waterfalls, the pastel pools of the Ink Pots, and broad alpine views from Mystic Pass. Keep an eye out for elk and bighorn sheep in the valley and meadows. The pass area sits in the Sawbacks, dominated by ancient sedimentary layers shaped by glaciers and erosion.

Logistics and tips: The trail is wide and well-maintained to the Ink Pots; beyond, it’s narrower, rougher singletrack. Carry a map or GPS for the remote sections, bring layers and rain protection (alpine weather turns fast), and treat all water. This is prime bear country—carry bear spray and know how to use it. For backpackers, designated sites like Larry’s Camp (Jo9) and Mystic Junction require advance reservations.

Bottom line: If you can handle the distance and elevation, the contrast—tourist canyon to lonely high country—makes this one of the more satisfying long outings off the Bow Valley. If that sounds like too much, the Ink Pots as a standalone out-and-back gives you a great sampler.