Upper Muley Twist Arch

Pros & cons

PROS

Multiple arches and short narrows in one outing
Panoramic rim-route views over the Waterpocket Fold and Henry Mountains

CONS

Long, remote day with route-finding and some exposed sections
Rough clay access road and no water or services anywhere on route

Overview

Upper Muley Twist Arch sits in a spectacular, remote canyon that slices along the spine of the Waterpocket Fold. Don’t think of it as a single selfie stop—the arch is part of a rich “arch zone” with fins, domes, short slot-like narrows, and a cairned rim route that delivers huge views. It’s one of the park’s best backcountry showcases for desert geology and solitude.

Note on naming: many maps pin “Upper Muley Twist Arch” near the canyon’s best-known opening, Saddle Arch. Park and nonprofit guides tend to call out Saddle Arch by name while describing several arches visible along this segment. Either way, you’re headed to the same highlight-packed stretch of Upper Muley Twist Canyon.

What You’ll See

A string of arches (including the prominent Saddle Arch) and sculpted Navajo Sandstone fins and domes.
Short narrows and a sandy wash, then a rim route on slickrock with sweeping panoramas.
Big-vista looks across the tilted strata of the Waterpocket Fold toward the Henry Mountains, with colorful chevron patterns and gray Mancos Shale cliffs in the distance.

Route, Distance & Difficulty

Expect a full-day hike. Depending on how far you can drive the access spur and whether you include the rim loop, most parties log roughly 11–16 miles. The wash is sandy/rocky and the rim is cairned; navigation is generally straightforward if you stay alert, but you’ll want a map/GPS in your pocket. Some sections feel exposed, especially in wind. There is no reliable water.

Geology Snapshot

This canyon is a front-row seat to the Waterpocket Fold—one of the world’s long monoclines. Arches and alcoves here are carved mostly in Navajo and Wingate Sandstone where protective layers have eroded away. From the rim, you can read the story in color: uplifted, tilted strata, pastel chevrons, and the muted grays of Mancos Shale beyond.

Access & Logistics

Reach the Upper Muley Twist Canyon Trailhead via the Burr Trail and the Strike Valley Overlook spur. The spur is rough and sandy, and the clay becomes impassable when wet. Parking is limited and primitive. There are no restrooms, no water, and no services—come fully self-sufficient.

Wildlife

This area is about rock, light, and silence more than critters. Typical canyon-country residents—lizards, birds, small mammals, and the occasional bighorn sheep—may appear, but sightings are hit-or-miss.

Best Time to Visit

Spring and fall bring the friendliest temperatures for such a long, exposed day. Start at first light to bank cool hours and give yourself margin for the rim traverse. Avoid wet periods (the road and canyon become problematic), and be cautious on breezy days when the rim feels more exposed. Crowds are generally light compared to front-country trails year-round.

Is It Worth It?

If you’re here for geology, big sky, and a sense of discovery, this is top-shelf Capitol Reef. If you want an easy, quick arch by the road, look elsewhere. The commitment pays off in spades.