Vonarskarð

Remote geothermal pass with rhyolite and sweeping highland views
Vonarskarð, Vatnajökull National Park
InsideVatnajökull National Park

Overview

Vonarskarð is a remote highland pass and watershed where north and south Iceland part ways, feeding the headwaters of Skjálfandafljót and Kaldakvísl. It’s rugged, raw, and geothermally alive—especially on the western side—with colorful rhyolite screes and varied hyaloclastite formations.

What You’ll See

  • Western Vonarskarð hosts a high‑temperature geothermal field with steaming vents and diverse formations.
  • Big‑sky panoramas across the Icelandic highlands, plus striking rhyolite screes and tuff ridges.
  • A stark, evolving landscape shaped by ice, volcanism, and water—this is the Highlands at their most honest.

Getting There

There’s no road access into Vonarskarð. You hike in from approaches like Kolufell, Gjósta, or Nýidalur. Expect unmarked or lightly marked terrain and plan for full self‑reliance.

Trail Options (examples)

  • Svarthöfði → Vonarskarð: Crosses between Svarthöfði and Kolufell, then along Skrauti into Snapadalur and the Hverahlíð geothermal area.
  • Nýidalur → Vonarskarð → Nýidalur: Follows the Mjóháls ridge with wide views toward Nýidalur and Tungnafellsjökull, ending near Hverahlíð.
  • Tvílitaskarð loop: Circles Kolufell with overlooks of Vonarskarð and a quiet mountain lake, mixing rhyolite and hyaloclastite scenery.
  • Gjósta → Vonarskarð: Descends via Gjóstukleif into Vonarskarð and onward to the Hverahlíð high‑temperature area.

Safety & Logistics

  • Remoteness is real: there’s no cell or Tetra coverage. Carry maps (digital and paper), GPS with spare power, and know when to turn back.
  • Conditions shift fast in the Highlands—snow, flooding, sandstorms can hit any time of year. Use only marked park roads when approaching; don’t trust random GPS lines for drivability.
  • No services or built restrooms here. Wild camping is illegal—use designated camp areas in the region (Nýidalur has hut facilities nearby, with limited options).
  • Don’t expect formal parking or fees at this backcountry access; fees apply at the park’s serviced hubs, not out here.

Wildlife

Wildlife is sparse in the interior, but you may encounter highland birdlife around vegetated patches. Treat fragile geothermal crusts and tundra with care and stick to durable surfaces.

Best Time to Visit

Aim for stable weather windows in summer for longer daylight and safer river/ground conditions. Start early for firm footing and calmer winds; midday light is harsh for photos, while late‑day brings better contrast. Crowds are minimal by default—your main constraint is weather, not people.

Pros

  • Wild geothermal area with rhyolite and hyaloclastite scenery
  • True wilderness solitude with broad highland views

Cons

  • No car access or services
  • No cell/Tetra coverage and rapidly changing conditions

Tips

  • Hike in from Kolufell, Gjósta, or Nýidalur—there’s no road access.
  • Carry paper maps plus GPS and spare batteries; there’s no signal.
  • Use only marked park roads to approach; verify conditions before you go.
  • Pack a full sanitation kit and extra layers—there are no facilities.
  • If the interior shuts down due to weather, keep coastal backup hikes ready.
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