Pros & cons
PROS
- Spectacular larch color around the basin in September without technical terrain.
- Optional high alpine extension from the basin toward the Pipestone Highline/Devon Lakes.
CONS
- Backcountry campsites (especially Fish Lakes Mo18) are highly competitive to reserve.
- Rooty, muddy sections can be energy-sapping—gaiters are genuinely useful.
Park at Mosquito Creek (campground/hostel area) along the Icefields Parkway; pick up the trail by crossing the highway or creek as signed.
Long, committing backcountry outing with steep pass, mud, and variable weather; lingering early-season snow, mosquitoes, bears and porcupines near camp; some minor unbridged water and braided trail sections.
Why go
If you’re chasing a big-mountain payoff without committing to a full traverse, Fish Lakes via North Molar Pass delivers. It’s a long out-and-back with about 18.4 miles total and roughly 3,701 feet of gain, rolling from mossy forest and creekside walking to wildflower meadows, a panoramic pass, and a swoop into a turquoise lake basin. It’s often called one of Banff’s best backpacking trips—stunning, varied, and rewarding—so long as you’re prepared for real effort.
What to expect on the trail
From the Mosquito Creek trailhead, you’ll start with a short, steep grunt through forest before the grade moderates. Expect rooty tread, mud pockets, and rocky bits along the creek; most big crossings are bridged, but you can still hit shallow water and boggy sections. The approach to North Molar Pass opens into expansive meadows (prime for summer wildflowers), then climbs more steeply to the high, airy pass with big views over Bow Valley, Dolomite Peak, and the Fish Lakes basin. The descent toward the lakes is steeper and can be braided. The Fish Lakes campground sits just inside the trees beside the water.
Distance, pace, and difficulty
Plan on 29.6 km/18.4 miles round trip and about 1,128 m/3,701 ft of total ascent. Strong hikers sometimes push it as a very long day, but most people are happier spreading it over 2–3 days. Typical travel time is 6–8 hours each way—about 12–16 hours total moving time—so budget accordingly.
Season and conditions
Sweet spot is late July through September: snow has usually melted, meadows bloom in July–August, and larches flare gold in September (nights get colder and early snow is possible). Earlier in the season, lingering snow can make the pass sketchy and the trail soggier. Smoke can also affect views and enjoyment during wildfire periods—wait for a clear window if you can.
Camping, permits, and safety
Overnighters need a Parks Canada backcountry reservation; Fish Lakes (Mo18) is the lakeside prize, with Mosquito Creek (Mo5) as a handy en route option. Sites are in demand—book early. Carry bear spray and keep it handy; bears frequent the area, and porcupines are known around camp. Expect mosquitoes mid-summer near water. The trail is generally well marked, but bring a proper topo (Hector Lake 82N/9) or an offline GPS. Leave No Trace is strictly enforced.
Pro tips
Bring gaiters for the muddy, rooted stretches—your socks will thank you. If you have an extra day in the basin, a high alpine extension traverses above Fish Lakes toward the Pipestone Alpine Highline/Devon Lakes area for even bigger views. Dogs are allowed on leash; keep them close, especially near wildlife and around camp.
Elevation
18.4 mi · 14 hrWhere it starts
51.6300, -116.3286Wildlife on this trail
Near Fish Lakes
All places →All trails →
0 mi awayMolar PassBig alpine meadows to a dramatic high pass with real solitudeChallenging · 12.2 mi · 7.5 hr
0 mi awayClearwater Pass and Devon LakesRemote, multi-pass alpine traverse to turquoise Devon LakesChallenging · 20.5 mi · 9 hr
0 mi awayDevon LakesRemote, multi-pass backpack to turquoise lakes and big valley viewsChallenging · 35 mi · 84 hr
0 mi awayNorth Molar PassBig alpine meadows and solitude beyond Mosquito CreekChallenging · 18.5 mi · 10.3 hr
0.1 mi awayHI Mosquito CreekOff-grid hostel with sauna and kitchen on the Icefields ParkwayLodging · Parking
3.4 mi awayHector LakeSolitude, glaciers, and a spicy river crossing to reach the shoreTrailhead · Pullout
3.7 mi awayDolomite PeakRugged dolomite towers over a remote pass with big alpine viewsTrailhead · Parking
4.5 mi awayCrowfoot GlacierEasy roadside view of a classic, rapidly changing glacier above Bow LakePullout · Parking
