Crathie Kirk

Crathie Kirk is a Church of Scotland parish church of pale granite, set on raised ground across the River Dee from Balmoral Castle. It is best known for its royal connection: Queen Victoria worshipped here, and the Royal Family have visited while at Balmoral. If you like royal history or Scots Gothic churches, it is a worthwhile short stop. If the interior is the reason for your detour, check access first: public visiting is seasonal, usually April to October, and the kirk can still be closed during that season.

There is on-street parking by the church, with additional parking nearby. The main areas have level access; accessible toilets are nearby rather than inside the kirk. A seasonal Monday café in the hall serves tea, coffee and home bakes, so it is useful for a light break rather than a meal.

A smaller kirk was built on this site in 1805, and Victoria worshipped here from 1848. She laid the foundation stone for the larger present kirk in 1893; it was completed and dedicated in 1895. Elgin architect A. Marshall Mackenzie designed it in a Scots Gothic style with a cruciform plan. Victoria’s daughters Beatrice and Louise helped raise £2,000 for the building at a bazaar in Balmoral’s grounds.

From the present church, you can see the ruins and graveyard of a separate 14th-century church dedicated to St Monire. John Brown, Victoria’s personal attendant, is buried in that older kirkyard, alongside local people who served her; some headstones carry epitaphs she wrote. Keep the two churches straight: Brown’s grave is not beside the current kirk.

When it is open, look for the contrast between the stone walls and the timber ceiling over the chancel, with stained glass, banners and wooden pews throughout. The square tower, steep spire, rose window and covered entrance make the outside worth a look even if the doors are shut.

Step back from the entrance to fit the rose window, porch and tower together; the surrounding conifers give the façade a natural frame. From the front of the church, the older ruins and graveyard are visible nearby, adding to the sense of place.