Olivine Ice Plateau

Overview

The Olivine Ice Plateau is a high, glaciated tableland straddling the Main Divide in a true wilderness corner of the park. It links headwaters of the Forgotten, Olivine, and Joe rivers and merges northward with Andy Glacier. Expect a committing, weather-exposed journey where glacier travel, passes, and long valley exits come as a package.

What Makes It Different

This isn’t a marked track or a casual viewpoint—it’s a classic New Zealand alpine traverse prized by experienced trampers and mountaineers. The plateau itself is broad and crevassed, and the approaches stitch together cols and saddles with names that carry lore: Seal Col, Desperation Pass, and Forgotten River Col. The Olivine River faultline visibly splits red ultramafic country with stunted scrub from “blue” bedrock with lush bush—geology you can see underfoot.

Route Sketch (Common East–West Flow)

• Dart roadend to Daleys Flat, then up Margaret Burn to snowline and Seal Col where glacier travel begins.
• South along the divide via Desperation Pass, over Watkins/Derivation margins, then regain height by Mt Gates/Blockade Stream to reach the plateau.
• Rope up to cross the plateau and descend via Forgotten River Col to the classic rock bivouac in the Forgotten.
• Exit down the Forgotten and Olivine, then over Fohn Saddle into the Beans Burn and out to the Dart; longer variants continue toward the Olivine/Joe/Arawhata systems.

Hazards You Should Take Seriously

• Crevasses and bergschrunds, including on the Seal Col approach and across the plateau—parties commonly rope up here.
• Short, steep snow/ice steps near passes; slips on soft-over-hard layers escalate quickly.
• Glacier recession has complicated the old lines at Desperation Pass and the step onto/off Forgotten River Col—expect broken, exposed transitions.
• Weather and visibility can shut things down fast; whiteout navigation on the divide is a known bail trigger.
• River terrain on exits involves bluff sidles, tussock traverses, and slippery snowgrass; rain magnifies everything.

Bivvies, Huts, and Water

• Rock bivs: dependable shelters at the Forgotten River and Olivine Ledge; an Olivine River biv exists but can be elusive to locate.
• Rees–Dart Track huts (Dart side) are the usual staging points; they have mattresses, water and toilets, and heating stoves, but you bring your own cooking stove and fuel. There’s no cellphone coverage; Dart Hut has radio contact.

Gear and Tactics

Bring a full glacier kit (rope, harnesses, crevasse rescue), crampons, and at least one technical axe per person depending on comfort for short icy steps. Hard maps plus GPS with a whiteout plan are essential. Alpine starts help with firmer morning snow; probe and space conservatively on bridges, and be ready to pitch or rappel the icier pinches. Carry a mountain radio or PLB and food for weather holds.

History & Geology

The area was explored and mapped in the 1930s by J. T. Holloway; Jack Holloway’s party first traversed Desperation Pass (Dart to Joe) in 1935. Along the Olivine River a major fault sharply separates red ultramafic rocks with sparse vegetation from blue-toned bedrock flanked by lush bush—one of the more striking in-field geology lessons you’ll get on a multi-day route.

Best Time to Visit

Parties often target February for firmer bridges and lower rivers, but short weather windows are the norm. Build generous buffers. Aim to hit the plateau early in the day for better snow and visibility. In shoulder seasons, avalanche exposure and removed bridges on feeder tracks can complicate access—check current conditions with local authorities before committing.