Desolation Peak Lookout

Kerouac’s historic fire lookout with knockout views over Ross Lake
Desolation Peak Lookout, North Cascades National Park
InsideNorth Cascades National Park

Overview

This is the classic lofty perch above Ross Lake—an old Forest Service fire lookout that delivers giant panoramas to Hozomeen, the Pickets, Jack Mountain, and deep into Canada. It’s strenuous, dry, and remote, but the payoff is pure North Cascades drama with a dash of Beat-poet history.

Getting There

Most day hikers arrange a water taxi on Ross Lake and get dropped at the Desolation dock before tackling the climb. You can also paddle to the area or backpack the long East Bank approach from Highway 20, but that turns the outing into a multi-day commitment. Expect a backcountry vibe from the first step—there’s no road to this trailhead.

The Climb & What You’ll See

From the lakeshore, the trail starts gentle, then turns into a sustained grind through forest to subalpine meadows. As the trees thin, the views explode: the daggered spires of Hozomeen, the blue ribbon of Ross Lake, and a sweep of craggy North Cascades ridgelines. Wildlife is very possible—grouse, marmots, deer, and, less commonly, bear or cougar—so keep food secured and your head on a swivel.

The Lookout

The 1930s-era lookout still stands on the summit ridge and is typically staffed in summer, but it isn’t open for public entry. No matter—you’ll have 360-degree vantage points around the site for photos and long, quiet lunches in the wind.

Water, Restrooms, and Camping

This hike is notoriously dry. After you leave Ross Lake, do not count on water once seasonal trickles dry up. There’s no water at the summit or at the designated Desolation Camp (about a mile below the top) after snowmelt. The camp holds one party (up to eight), fires are prohibited, and bear canisters are required. There’s a basic toilet near the camp; don’t expect facilities at the summit.

Best Time to Visit

Late July through September usually offers snow-free trail and clearer skies for those big views. Start early to beat the heat on this sun-baked climb. Weekdays are quieter. For photography, aim for morning light on Hozomeen and late afternoon for warm tones over Ross Lake; sunsets can be stellar if you’re prepared for a headlamp descent or camping with a permit.

Need-to-Know

  • The ascent is steep with roughly 4,400 feet of gain—carry more water than you think you need.
  • The lookout is off-limits inside; plan to enjoy the area around it.
  • Backcountry permits are required for any overnight, and the high camp is tiny—reserve early.
  • If you’re boating in, lake levels can strand docks; be ready to land below and tie off if needed.

Pros

  • Historic fire lookout with sweeping views of Ross Lake and Hozomeen
  • Remote, uncrowded feel for a true North Cascades experience
  • Literary lore: Jack Kerouac’s 1956 lookout post

Cons

  • Lookout is closed to the public; views are from outside only
  • Steep, hot, waterless climb after leaving Ross Lake
  • Logistics-heavy access via boat taxi or very long backpack

Tips

  • Reserve the Ross Lake water taxi well in advance and confirm your pickup window.
  • Start at dawn and carry ample water; there are no reliable sources after leaving the lake.
  • If you plan to camp, bring a bear canister and don’t count on water at Desolation Camp.
  • There’s a basic toilet near the high camp; none at the summit or on most of the trail.
  • For route details and background, see [wta.org](https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/desolation-peak), [alltrails.com](https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/washington/desolation-peak-trail), and [wikipedia.org](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desolation_Peak_(Washington)).
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