First Divide Trail

This is a classic Olympic journey from moss-draped lowland rainforest to a high pass with big-mountain views. Starting at the Staircase area, you follow the North Fork Skokomish River through ancient Douglas fir and hemlock, where ferns and maples crowd a well‑maintained tread and the river keeps you company with clear pools and riffles. The grade is friendly early, making it easy to chew miles while you get deep into the park.

Around Nine Stream the character changes: the climbing kicks up and you trade riverbank cruising for a serious push into montane forest and eventually subalpine terrain. Wildflower meadows pop in summer, and the final approach to First Divide (about 4,688 feet) rewards the effort with sweeping vistas of rugged, snow‑capped Olympic peaks and deep, glacially carved valleys. It’s a long day out-and-back, so most hikers treat First Divide as either a burly day mission or a rewarding backpack.

Plan on roughly 12.7–13.1 miles one way (about 25–26 miles total for the out‑and‑back) with around 3,900–4,000 feet of gain. The tread is generally good but can be muddy and slick in shoulder seasons. Camps are thoughtfully spaced—Spike Camp, Big Log, Camp Pleasant, Nine Stream, Two Bear, and Home Sweet Home—making overnights straightforward and letting you choose your effort. Water is plentiful from the river and tributaries; filter everything.

Best time to hike: Lower sections are accessible year‑round, but snow can linger at First Divide into early summer. For the full route and best views, aim for early July through October. July–August bring peak wildflowers; early fall offers cooler temps and fewer bugs. Start early if attempting as a day hike—daylight matters on a route this long—and keep a weather eye; mountain conditions can flip fast.

Tips: If you want big Olympic scenery with fewer crowds than the park’s headline routes, this is a great pick. The steepest climbing comes after Nine Stream—budget energy accordingly, especially if turning it in a day. For backpackers, some camps have bear wires; where they don’t, proper food storage with a canister is required. Overnight trips require a wilderness permit. If you’re after a shorter sampler of old growth and river scenery without the commitment, consider turning around at one of the lower camps.