Upper Big Five Lakes Trail

Overview

The Upper Big Five Lakes sit on a spur off Mineral King’s famed Big & Little Five Lakes loop—one of the High Sierra’s most rewarding backpacking circuits if you like big passes, granite basins, and solitude. Expect a strenuous, multi-day objective with real elevation and a couple of crux passes. The full loop that includes the Upper Big Five spur runs roughly 28–30 miles total with around 9,500–10,000 feet of gain. Most hikers take 3–5 days; give yourself more time if you want long, lazy lake afternoons.

Why go

Two words: views and quiet. The upper lakes are the money spots—fewer people than the lower basin and wider panoramas. Black Rock Pass serves up sweeping looks at the Kaweah Range, the Five Lakes basins below, and even distant Sierra giants on a clear day. Between basins, you’ll thread whimsical forests, waterfalls, wildflower meadows, and that classic High Sierra “granite and turquoise” scenery.

Route feel and difficulty

Most backpackers hike the loop clockwise: Timber Gap to Cliff Creek/Pinto Lake, up and over Black Rock Pass to Little then Big Five, through Lost Canyon, and out via Sawtooth/Glacier Pass to Monarch Lakes. Black Rock is long and demanding; Sawtooth is shorter but steeper with loose sand/scree and intermittent tread. Many prefer using Glacier Pass to reach Monarch Lakes rather than “scree skiing” Sawtooth’s direct sand chute. Trekking poles are worth their weight here.

Camps, fires, and food storage

Popular camps line Cliff Creek, Pinto Lake area, Little Five, the Upper Big Five spur, Lost Canyon, and Monarch Lakes. Fires are prohibited above 10,000 feet (which is most of this loop) and also not allowed at Pinto Lake; the only exception noted on this route is the lowest Big Five Lake. Plan for stove-only cooking. Bear boxes exist at some established sites, but do not rely on them—carry a bear canister. Camping is no longer allowed at Columbine Lake; aim for Lost Canyon or Monarch Lakes instead.

Season and conditions

Mineral King is a summer/fall play. Road access is tough or closed in winter, and summer monsoon storms can build fast—plan to be off high passes early in the day from July to September. Expect mosquitoes in season, potentially intense after wet spells. The area sits high (passes around 11,600–11,750 feet), so acclimatize and watch for altitude symptoms.

Wildlife and trail character

Marmots and pika thrive in these rocky basins, and bears do roam—keep a clean camp and secure your food. Down low, you’ll pass streams and small falls (Pinto Lake has a swim hole vibe); up high, it’s glacially carved granite with sweeping skylines. Lost Canyon is a standout meadow walk with a ribbon of water and frequent marmot sightings.

Permits and logistics

Wilderness permits are required (reserve up to six months ahead); limited walk-up options may exist. Mineral King Road has ongoing construction through fall 2027 that can mean delays or closures—build buffer time into your travel day. At the trailhead, marmots have a reputation for chewing hoses/wiring earlier in the season; many hikers wrap their cars.

Tips to hike it better

• Go clockwise to front-load the long Black Rock climb and save the looser Sawtooth/Glacier exit for last.
• Favor Glacier Pass to Monarch Lakes if steep sand isn’t your thing.
• Start passes early to dodge afternoon storms and heat.
• Pack poles, head net/repellent, a 20°F-ish sleep system for high camps, and a proper bear canister.

Best time to hike

Late June through October, conditions permitting. For fewer bugs and mellower creek crossings, aim for late summer into early fall. Hit the big passes shortly after sunrise for cooler temps, calmer winds, and the best light on the lakes. Weekdays see fewer people than weekends, and the upper basin stays quieter regardless.