Howden Reservoir

Howden is the uppermost of the three Upper Derwent Valley reservoirs, sitting above Derwent and Ladybower in the drowned valley of the River Derwent. That position is the whole point: it takes effort to reach, so it stays quieter than the busier dam-side crowds lower down. The county boundary runs straight through the middle of the water, and the shoreline is all forested slope, still water and open moorland above.

Howden Dam was completed in July 1912, two years after work began, and it is now Grade II listed. Its foundation stone carries the inscription "Glory to thee in the highest in the year of the Lord 1902-1912". The reservoir was built by the Derwent Valley Water Board to supply Derby, Leicester, Nottingham, Sheffield and Derbyshire, and standing at the head of the valley you get a real sense of that scale. The dam is one of the most photographic points on the walk.

• The usual starting point is Fairholmes, the main access point for the Upper Derwent Valley, with a pay-and-display car park, toilets, a refreshment kiosk and bike hire.
• The classic version is an approximately five-mile walk from Fairholmes to Howden Dam that does not climb a hill, following the water past woodland and hill views.
• The longer option is the 10.5-mile Derwent, Howden and Slippery Stones Trail, walkable or cyclable, continuing north to Slippery Stones at the head of the valley. Note that the west half of the Lost Villages route is footpath only, so cyclists cannot ride it.
• The road north of the Fairholmes roundabout has a recurring pattern of seasonal, weekend and bank holiday motor-vehicle restrictions, with exceptions for residents and blue-badge holders, and the road in front of Derwent Dam is closed to non-residents. On quieter weekdays some people drive part way before a gate or barrier, but treat that as variable and plan to walk or cycle.

Walk or ride, look at water and hills, and stop at the dam. Water sports are not permitted on these reservoirs, so this is not a swimming, paddling or kayaking destination. The toilets, refreshment kiosk and bike hire are all at Fairholmes, the main access point, so it makes sense to eat, use the facilities and sort out bikes there before you set off up the valley.

The reward is quiet, not variety, and the walk in is long enough that people expecting a quick dam-side stroll should stay lower in the valley. The upper valley is remote and exposed in places, weather can change quickly, and there is no mobile signal, so take layers, water and a map rather than relying on your phone.