Long Range Traverse

The Long Range Traverse is a 35 km point-to-point backpacking route from the east-end dock on Western Brook Pond to Highway 430 at the Gros Morne Mountain trailhead. It takes 3 to 5 days, usually 3 or 4 nights, and crosses the Long Range plateau before descending through Ferry Gulch. This is for fit, experienced backcountry hikers who already know how to navigate with a map, compass and GPS. There are no built or marked trails for most of it, and a rescue can take more than a day. Choose it for a real wilderness crossing with fjord walls, open barrens and remote ponds; skip it if you need a clear path to follow.

A boat across Western Brook Pond is the only way to reach the east-end starting dock. The separate walk from the parking area to the BonTours dock is 3 km, about 45 minutes, and is not included in the traverse distance. Boat departures depend on wind and weather, so leave some slack. From LR-1, the first 5.3 km climbs more than 600 m beside the brook, crossing it several times. After about 2.5 km, you reach a large waterfall and an unstable rockslide. Use the cleared route to the right of the slide; never climb onto it from below. The steep, wooded climb leads back to the brook and an exposed rock slab, then up to the open top of the gorge. The gorge is the hardest stretch and deserves a full day; Parks Canada advises starting by noon so you can reach the first campsite before dark.

The route then threads south between Little Island, Marks, Hardings and Green Island ponds. Expect bog, deep mud, slick rock and short, sometimes difficult brook crossings. Much of the plateau is open with few landmarks, and low cloud makes its faint tracks harder to distinguish from game paths. Keep south at Marks Pond rather than following paths southeast toward Glanders Gulch or Candlestick Pond. At Green Island Pond, ignore the tempting shoreline path: it ends at an unsafe cliff. The crossing between the two Green Island camps can be difficult when water is high and fast.

At Bakeapple Pond, the route opens to a view across Ten Mile Pond; include the near rim with the water to show the scale of the basin. The descent into Ferry Gulch follows the newer, less steep route before joining the Gros Morne Mountain trail. From Ferry Gulch, allow another 2 to 4 hours for the final 7.7 km to Highway 430. The optional Gros Morne Mountain summit is a separate hike and is not part of this route.

Plan on carrying all meals; there is no food service or resupply on the traverse. The season runs from late June into September, when snowmelt, rain and river levels change the difficulty. There is room for only three groups of up to four hikers per day. Book ahead to guarantee your date, get both park-entry and backcountry permits, and attend the required safety briefing at the Visitor Centre at 2:30 p.m. the day before. Regular pets cannot travel on the required boat.

This is a one-way trip, not a loop. The usual logistics are to leave your car at the Gros Morne Mountain trailhead, arrange a taxi to BonTours at Western Brook Pond 1 to 2 days ahead, and take the boat across to the start. Build time around that boat connection and arrange your finish transport before setting out.