Pros & cons
PROS
- Loop variant via Vogelsang and Evelyn adds new scenery with similar mileage
- Ireland Lake’s open, treeless basin delivers huge Cathedral Range views
- Flat Lyell Canyon approach lets you warm up before the big climb
CONS
- Water can be scarce along the high ridge between Lyell and Rafferty
- Windy, cold conditions at the lake can make camping less comfortable
- The steep climb out of Lyell hits late if you day-hike out-and-back
Park at the Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Center trailhead parking (use signed trailhead lots). Start on the John Muir Trail up Lyell Canyon; the Ireland Lake turnoff is mid-canyon.
High-elevation cold and wind near the lake; significant climb out of Lyell Canyon; limited water along the ridge between Lyell and Rafferty; mosquitoes in early summer; occasional downed trees; spotty cell service. Entry reservations are required to drive into the park on some peak summer dates.
Overview
This is High Sierra solitude at its best: a big-mile walk that starts easy in broad, flower-filled Lyell Canyon before climbing to a stark, open granite basin and the glassy waters of Ireland Lake. Expect around 19.7–20.3 miles total for the classic out-and-back with roughly 2,365–2,470 feet of gain. Strong hikers can push it as a long day (about 8–8.5 hours), but most people savor it as a one-night backpacking trip.
The Route
Start from Tuolumne Meadows and follow the John Muir Trail up Lyell Canyon, a mellow and remarkably flat approach flanked by meadows and a winding river. Midway up the canyon, turn onto the signed Ireland Lake Trail and brace for the real work: a significant climb out of Lyell. Once you crest the high country, the final ~1.5 miles to the lake are mostly straightforward over open, treeless terrain with expansive views, including peaks like Amelia Earhart Peak.
Loop Option
If you prefer variety, turn the trip into a loop (~19.8–22.5 miles total). From Ireland Lake, continue past Lake 10,425 and Evelyn Lake toward Vogelsang High Sierra Camp, then descend the Rafferty Creek Trail back to Tuolumne. Scenery shifts from austere alpine to rolling meadows and classic Cathedral Range vistas, with additional camping options near the high lakes.
What You’ll See
Early summer paints Lyell Canyon with wildflowers. Higher up, the landscape opens into glacier-carved slabs and scattered boulders, with huge, unobstructed views around Ireland Lake. The transition from forest to barren alpine makes the final approach feel dramatic. Wildlife sightings are possible along this corridor. Do note that the lakeside can be windy and chilly due to elevation—plan layers accordingly if you’re lingering or camping.
Difficulty and Gotchas
Don’t underestimate the climb out of Lyell Canyon—especially if you’re day-hiking and hitting it late. Occasional downed trees pop up, and water can be limited along the ridge between Lyell Canyon and Rafferty Creek, so carry enough between reliable sources. Mosquitoes can be active in early summer. Download offline maps; cell service is spotty.
Permits and Regulations
No permit is needed for a day hike. Overnight trips require a Yosemite wilderness permit. Reservations are released in two waves (60% about 24 weeks ahead; 40% two weeks to four days prior), with a nonrefundable reservation fee plus a per-person charge. Pick up permits at a park permit station. Bear-resistant food storage is mandatory for overnights, and backpackers can use designated Backpackers Campgrounds the night before or after the trip.
Best Time to Hike
Go when Tioga Road is open and the high country is accessible—generally late spring through fall. Early summer brings meadows and wildflowers (and bugs), while late summer tends to be drier with fewer mosquitoes but can feel more exposed. Mornings offer cooler temps, calmer winds at the lake, and softer light. In early season, expect lingering cold and potentially icy sections at elevation.
Elevation
19.7 mi · 8.3 hrWhere it starts
37.8775, -119.3385Near Ireland Lake Trail
All places →All trails →
0 mi awayRafferty Creek TrailSteady climb to Vogelsang’s lakes and big-sky high countryModerate · 6 mi · 3.5 hr
0 mi awayPacific Crest TrailBig-mile, high-country traverse of Yosemite’s granite heartChallenging · 70 mi · 168 hr
0 mi awayLyell Canyon TrailheadFlat meadow-and-river gateway to the JMT from Tuolumne MeadowsTrailhead · Parking
0.3 mi awayTuolumne Meadows LodgeRustic canvas cabins in the high country, steps from classic trailsLodging · Restroom
0.4 mi awayTuolumne Meadows Wilderness CenterPermit hub for high-country trips, plus water and solid ranger adviceRanger Station · Restroom
0.6 mi awayLembert DomeShort hike, huge Tuolumne Meadows views from a granite domeTrailhead · Parking
0.8 mi awayDog Lake to Lembert DomeShort loop to a quiet lake and a granite dome with big viewsModerate · 5 mi · 2.5 hr
0.8 mi awayYoung Lakes via Dog Lake TrailThree-lake High Sierra gem with views, altitude, and real effort.Challenging · 14 mi · 7 hr
