West Highland Way

The West Highland Way is a 96-mile (154 km) point-to-point walk from Milngavie to Fort William, normally walked south to north. It starts with paths and lanes outside Glasgow, then trades fields and smaller waters for Loch Lomond’s shore, mountain glens and exposed Rannoch Moor. A full crossing is a multi-day trip, not a long park loop: the published itineraries take five to seven days. Seven days gives the rough Loch Lomond shore its own stage; the five-day plan means several long days of around 20 miles.

Begin at the obelisk on Douglas Street beside Milngavie station and finish at Gordon Square in Fort William. The appeal is the changing country: ancient oakwoods, the islands of Loch Lomond, open moor, Glencoe’s mountains and the final approach below Ben Nevis.

From Drymen, the main line climbs Conic Hill, one significant ascent on the Drymen–Rowardennan stage. There’s a lower alternative, but the summit earns the climb with a view over Loch Lomond’s island chain, which follows the Highland Boundary Fault. It’s the best spot to frame the islands against the water. After Balmaha, the Way stays close to the loch through oakwood and past campsites to Rowardennan.

Rowardennan to Inverarnan is the slow day. The route starts on forestry track, then grows rougher north of Inversnaid: roots, boulders, rocky steps and repeated short climbs make the shore much slower than the mileage suggests. At Inversnaid a footbridge crosses Snaid Burn as it drops into the loch. Farther on, a small beach opens a view to Island I Vow; the path then reaches Blarstainge’s ruins and Beinglas Farm before Inverarnan. Don’t count the Rob Roy’s Cave spur as part of the Way; it’s a separate slippery scramble.

North of Inverarnan, the path follows the River Falloch, with glimpses of the Falls of Falloch, skirts Crianlarich and crosses the River Fillan past St Fillan’s Priory on the way to Tyndrum. Stock up there: the route guide identifies no shops for 28 miles, until Kinlochleven. After Inveroran, the old military road climbs onto Rannoch Moor. Ba Bridge and the ruins of Ba Cottage break up the open stretch, but there’s no shelter until the Glencoe Ski Centre. The view of Buachaille Etive Mòr near Kingshouse is a fitting payoff.

The Devil’s Staircase zigzags to the Way’s high point at 550 metres, then the route crosses moorland and drops to Kinlochleven. The final stage climbs steeply out of town, follows the broad pass of Lairigmor between steep mountains, then winds through forestry with Ben Nevis in view. Dun Deardail’s Iron Age fort is a worthwhile side trip in Glen Nevis. A new waymarked high route over Cow Hill offers a different finish; the main route ends at the walker statue in Gordon Square.

The one-way logistics are straightforward by public transport: Milngavie has regular trains to Glasgow; Fort William connects back to Glasgow, and buses serve both ends and several route towns. There’s no dedicated car park at either end, so arrange a return vehicle separately if you’re driving. Balmaha has a visitor centre and refreshments; Rowardennan, Inversnaid, Ardlui and Beinglas offer services at points along the lochside stages.

In Loch Lomond’s camping byelaw season, 1 March to 30 September, camping is limited to campsites and designated permit areas. Dogs are barred from two enclosed fields on Conic Hill’s east approach during lambing, usually mid-April to the end of May. Rannoch Moor is exposed, and burns on the Loch Lomond shore can be unsafe after heavy rain; follow local route diversions when they’re in place.