Lairig an Laoigh

Lairig an Laoigh is a 19-mile (30.5 km) point-to-point mountain crossing from Allt Mòr near Glenmore to Linn of Dee. It links Ryvoan Pass, the upper Nethy, the Fords of Avon and Glen Derry in a single long day. Allow 8–10 hours for rough, often stony tracks and about 720 m of cumulative ascent. This is a remote, strenuous route with several river crossings, not a casual link between nearby walks.

Arrange a vehicle transfer between the two ends or confirm dependable return transport before setting out. The route starts at Allt Mòr car park and finishes at Linn of Dee; the map follows the customary Glenmore-to-Dee direction. There is no short, straightforward way to turn this into a loop. The small Fords of Avon shelter is for emergencies, not a planned overnight stop, so carry what you need for the full crossing.

The way begins among Scots pine and crosses the Allt Mòr before climbing through Ryvoan Pass. Steps lead down to Lochan Uaine, whose green water is a memorable pause beside the track. Beyond it the path grows rougher, crosses the River Nethy by footbridge, then climbs above the forest onto open ground. At the later fork, keep left on the Lairig route; the right branch heads toward Bynack More. The broad upland can be hard to read in poor visibility, and the Water of Caiplich drainage is a serious place to stray from the path.

After the moorland climb, the route passes Lochan a’ Bhainne and the basic Fords of Avon refuge. The Avon crossing commonly involves wading and can be impassable in spate; a second tributary follows. Further on, Glas Allt Mòr can also run fast. Do not enter a crossing that is beyond your ability or unsafe. The stony, wet path rises to a high pass near 790 m, then drops into Glen Derry. Expect a demanding day even when the route line is clear.

The final miles descend through the Derry pinewoods, past Derry Lodge and on toward Glen Lui. After the Luibeg bridge, the path reaches the Linn of Dee car park. “Lairig an Laoigh” means “Calves Pass”: drovers used this lower eastern pass to move cattle between the Aviemore and Nethy Bridge area and Braemar. Local workers once cleared boulders from the glens for the drovers; with that work long gone, the rough stones remain a defining part of the walk.