Cairn Toul–Braeriach Traverse

The Cairn Toul–Braeriach Traverse is a 22.25-mile (36 km) loop from Sugar Bowl, through the Lairig Ghru and back across the high Cairngorm plateau. It visits the Devil’s Point, Cairn Toul, Sgòr an Lochain Uaine and Braeriach, with 1,820 metres of ascent. Allow about 13 hours for the full circuit; two days with a night at remote Corrour Bothy is a more measured plan. This is for fit walkers with substantial mountain experience: the boulderfields are slow, parts of the route are indistinct, and a broad stretch near Braeriach has no mapped path. The reward is a rare sweep through the range’s great corries, with Cairn Toul and Braeriach looking over country far beyond the roads. Carry your own food; Corrour Bothy is an open shelter, not a staffed stop.

From Sugar Bowl, cross the ski road and descend to the footbridge over Allt Mòr, then climb the paved path toward Chalamain Gap. The way becomes a jumble of large, awkward boulders in the gap, where progress is slow and careful foot placement matters. On the far side, descend to the Lairig Ghru, a deep glacial trench framed by the cliffs of Lurcher’s Crag and Sròn na Lairig. Near the Pools of Dee, the path fades among hummocky Ice Age moraines. Continue south past Clach nan Taillear, the Stone of the Tailors, to a bridge over the Dee and Corrour Bothy. Local legend says tailors died here in a blizzard while crossing as part of a wager; it is a story attached to the place, not established history.

From the bothy, climb beside Allt a’ Choire Odhair and zigzag up the corrie headwall. Hard snow can linger here into summer. At the bealach, take the short detour to the Devil’s Point, then climb exposed slopes to Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir and follow the corrie rim toward Cairn Toul. The final approach is over boulders. Steep cliffs drop into Coire an Lochain beside the ridge, and the summit opens a wide view northwest across the corrie and its lochan toward Braeriach.

Descend west from Cairn Toul, cross the bealach and climb to Sgòr an Lochain Uaine, better known as Angel’s Peak. It became a separate Munro in 1997. The route continues over Càrn na Criche onto Braeriach’s broad, nearly featureless plateau, heading toward the Dee’s high source. About 340 metres of the mapped route crosses open ground where no path is mapped, so do not expect a continuous tread or rely on sight alone in poor visibility. Braeriach’s summit cairn sits close to the great cliffs of Coire Bhrochain. Keep well back from the edge; from a safe distance, the view takes in the corries, Cairn Toul across the glen and the forests of Speyside.

The return follows the rim of Coire Bhrochain and the ridge of Sròn na Lairig, close to steep drops above the Lairig Ghru. There are few easy escape routes from this high ground. Descend carefully to the pass, then retrace the Lairig Ghru and pick through Chalamain Gap again to reach Sugar Bowl. The repeated boulderfield can feel longer on tired legs, so leave time and energy for it on the way back.

Sugar Bowl car park, beside the Cairngorm ski road above Glenmore, is the start; parking is paid. Buses between Aviemore and the Cairngorm ski centre pass the entrance. There is no staffed food stop along the route, and the bothy is an overnight shelter rather than a café. Scottish access rights generally allow responsible walking with dogs. Keep dogs under close control around livestock; on moorland during the usual April-to-July breeding season, keep them close to heel or on a short lead.