Rhaeadr Ddu (Black Falls)

Two waterfalls tumble roughly 60 feet (18 m) down the Afon Gamlan, squeezed into a damp, tree-shaded gorge. How they look changes with rainfall, weather and light, so the same spot can feel thunderous on one visit and gentle and dappled on another. Worth knowing before you build the day around it.

Start at the Dolmelynllyn car park in Ganllwyd (LL40 2TF). The circular waterside walk follows the river, crosses a stone bridge and then a wooden bridge, then picks up waymarks to the falls. Near the bridge, look for the lichen-covered rock carved with a Latin inscription, easy to walk straight past.

• 3.2 km / 2 miles, about 1.5 hours
• Graded moderate
• Surfaces: tarmac, grassy paths that can be muddy, rocky slopes, steps and uneven ground
• Stout shoes genuinely help; the rocks near the falls can be slippery, so take your time with footing on uneven terrain

This is ancient oak woodland, protected as an SSSI and Special Area of Conservation. The wet gorge air supports an exceptionally rich carpet of mosses and liverworts, the sort of green that coats everything. Pied flycatchers and other woodland birds occur in summer, and brimstone butterflies are linked to alder buckthorn here. The nearby Dolmelynllyn Estate walk takes in the remains of the Cefn Coch gold mine if you want to stretch the day.

It is a short walk, not an epic, and the muddy and uneven sections put some people off. Parking pressure is the main frustration. On the upside, there are several route options and plenty of visitors find it genuinely peaceful.