Smoky Creek Trail in Big Bend National Park

Big Bend National Park, TX

Smoky Creek Trail

A long, rough wash walk ending at the Mule Ears overlook.

Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Length
16.3mi
Time
10hr
Elev. change
2,100ft
Difficulty
Challenging
  • No dogs
  • High point 4,951 ft

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Homer Wilson Ranch

Overview

About Smoky Creek Trail

Why go

  • A remote wash traverse with close views of the Mule Ears pinnacles
  • A true point-to-point hike between two Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive overlooks

Heads up

  • Loose rock and uneven route marking make navigation part of the hike
  • Long, exposed one-way route requires a shuttle and all carried water

Map & elevation

The route

Loading the Big Bend map
Full map
Elevation2,851–4,951 ft
TrailheadHomer Wilson Ranch Overlook29.21476, -103.36663
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Plan your hike

Before you go

Parking

Start at the Homer Wilson Ranch Overlook turnout on Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and finish at Mule Ears Overlook parking. Arrange a driver or leave a vehicle at each end; this route is one-way.

Safety

Fully exposed desert with no water along the route. Expect loose wash rock, dry-fall scrambles and faint or missing tread; carry reliable navigation and avoid the wash when rain threatens. Pets are prohibited on trails.

2 active Big Bend alerts

  • ClosureWeather-related road closuresDo not use these closed roads; NPS lists the closures as in effect until further notice.Official details
  • InfoBoquillas Crossing schedule changeBoquillas Crossing is open Friday through Monday, 9:00 a.m.–4:00 p.m.; NPS says it will not change to winter hours at this time. Check current park conditions before planning a crossing.Official details
Big Bend alerts
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Parkwolf Tour GuideThe highest, rockiest slopes around here are a summer buffet for grizzly bears.

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Homer Wilson Ranch
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“You're coming up on Homer Wilson Ranch Overlook, with an old sheep-and-goat camp in the valley below.”

Plays as you drive up to this trailhead in the Parkwolf Big Bend Tour Guide.

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Trail guide

Hiking Smoky Creek Trail

A demanding point-to-point hikeSmoky Creek Trail here is a long, one-way desert traverse from Homer Wilson Ranch Overlook to…

Smoky Creek Trail here is a long, one-way desert traverse from Homer Wilson Ranch Overlook to Mule Ears Overlook. It follows about 3.4 miles of Dodson Trail to the signed Smoky Creek junction, then 8.3 miles through the wash, and exits on the 3.6-mile Mule Ears Trail. A walked itinerary reports 16.3 miles; the mapped line totals 15.3, so plan for roughly 16 miles and allow about 10 hours. This is for experienced desert hikers, with a driver or shuttle arranged between the two ends.

The Dodson approachFrom Homer Wilson, Dodson rolls up and down for about 3.4 miles before the Smoky Creek junction.

From Homer Wilson, Dodson rolls up and down for about 3.4 miles before the Smoky Creek junction. The sign marks the turn into the wash. The first stretch is brushy, with sharp desert plants crowding the higher edges; the vegetation thins farther along.

Through the washLoose rocks make the creekbed slow and tiring underfoot.

Loose rocks make the creekbed slow and tiring underfoot. Tread and cairns come and go, so route-finding is part of the hike: keep checking a reliable GPS track against a topographic map. One older track line leaves the wash, but that detour was reported to be overgrown; don't follow a stale line blindly. The route climbs to roughly 5,000 feet before dropping toward Mule Ears, so the mostly downhill direction still has real effort.

Dry falls and the Mule Ears viewExpect boulder hops and short scrambles around dry falls.

Expect boulder hops and short scrambles around dry falls. A harder drop has a bypass described at the site, but check your footing before committing. Mule Ears pinnacles appear across the wash and come closest near the junction; this route views them from below rather than climbing to the formations. Near Mule Ear Spring, climb out of the drainage, then follow Mule Ears Trail to the overlook parking area. For a photo, keep some of the pale wash in front of the pinnacles to show the scale of the desert crossing.

Carry everything you needThere is no water along the route, and the field report found no restrooms at either end.

There is no water along the route, and the field report found no restrooms at either end. The wash is fully exposed, and rain can make drainage travel dangerous. Bring all water for a long day, sun protection and navigation you know how to use. The park requires a backcountry permit for overnight camping; this is a day route. Pets are not allowed on park trails.

What this map coversThis entry maps the documented Homer Wilson-to-Mule Ears point-to-point hike.

This entry maps the documented Homer Wilson-to-Mule Ears point-to-point hike. A separate southern walk is described from an unmarked River Road access to the Mule Ears junction, but its exact start and continuous route could not be verified; it is not included in this line or distance. Treat that as a different plan and check with the park before attempting it.

Wildlife

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