Highland Backpacking Trail

Overview

One of the park’s three designated backpacking routes, this trail strings together classic Canadian Shield forest, rocky knobs, and quiet lakes on two signed loops: a shorter 19 km circuit around Provoking Lake and a longer 35 km loop that reaches Head and Harness Lakes. The trail starts at the Highland Backpacking Trailhead at km 29.7 on Highway 60 (near Bat Lake) and is open year‑round with parking and bathrooms at the lot. Expect real elevation changes, side slopes, roots, and the occasional scramble—this is a rugged backcountry hike with great payoff in lake views and scenic lookouts.

Distance and difficulty

Posted distances are 19 km (inner loop) and 35 km (outer loop). Both are TOTAL loop distances; day hikers sometimes tackle the 19 km as a big day, but most people backpack either loop over 1–3 nights. The park rates it difficult due to repeated short, steep climbs and rough footing. Past Provoking toward Head/Harness, sections can be muddy and overgrown. Trekking poles help. Many hikers prefer to go clockwise for a more scenic, better‑paced experience.

Permits and campsites

Backcountry camping is by site‑specific reservation (bookable up to five months ahead), and you must carry a valid camping permit. Campsites are generally well‑maintained and spacious. Popular picks mentioned by recent trip reports include lakefront sites on Provoking (e.g., “Provoking‑06” for swimming and hammock trees). Some Head Lake sites exist but can be sloped (e.g., “Head‑02”). No cans or bottles in the backcountry, and dogs must stay leashed.

Water, bugs, and wildlife

Treat all water. Between Harness Lake and Provoking Lake, expect tannin‑stained “bog tea”—safe to drink if properly filtered/boiled/treated. Mosquitoes can be heavy in June and July; a bug hat can save your sanity. Leeches show up in still water, and ground wasp nests are occasionally encountered right on the tread. Black bears are active: trees suitable for hangs are scarce, so bring a bear can or Ursack and practice clean‑camp habits.

Navigation and current closure

The trail is signed and generally easy to follow, but carry the official Backpacking Trails Map plus a GPS/compass—fallen leaves and mud can hide tread. As of June 27, 2025, the bridge over the Madawaska River on the trail is permanently closed. You must detour via the Old Airfield and the Old Railway Bike Trail bridge to rejoin the route toward Starling Lake, which adds about 2.7 km one way to posted distances. Those corridor trails are flatter and can double as bail‑outs if needed.

Best time to hike

Fall brings cooler nights, fewer bugs, and great views through thinning leaves—arguably the sweet spot. Spring can be very wet and muddy. Summer offers warm swims but peak bugs and busier campsites (reserve early). It’s open in winter, but expect ice and bring traction if you head out on snow‑hard trails. Weekdays and early starts mean more solitude and first pick of views at the lookouts and at Provoking Falls.

Tips

• Clockwise usually feels more scenic and organized.
• Treat every drop of water and plan ahead for the tannin‑heavy stretch.
• Trekking poles, a small first‑aid kit, and bug protection are smart adds.
• If you’re not driving, seasonal bus service along Highway 60 can get you close.

Note: Length listed below reflects the full outer loop (classic route); remember the current detour can add to that total.