Big Beaver Trail

Big Beaver Trail is a 24.6-mile, one-way point-to-point hike from Ross Dam Trailhead on State Route 20 to the Little Beaver Trail junction. It follows Ross Lake’s west shore, turns up Big Beaver Creek valley, climbs to Beaver Pass, then descends toward Little Beaver Creek. Plan it as a wilderness backpack: the park describes one-to-four-day itineraries, depending on pace and camp stops. Its route figures include about 500 feet of descent and 2,000 feet of climbing. The main commitment is the distance and remote exit logistics. If you want a short taste, Ross Dam is 1.3 miles each way from the trailhead, though the steep descent makes the climb back out demanding.

From Ross Dam Trailhead, the path drops about 0.8 mile to a gravel service road. Turn left briefly, then follow the incline down to the top of Ross Dam. Cross the dam and head north along the lake’s west shore. It’s about six miles to Big Beaver Creek, with several small creek crossings and occasional lake glimpses through lodgepole pine and Douglas-fir. Pierce Creek is a memorable stop on this stretch: it tumbles out of a narrow gorge under the footbridge and drops into the lake. The route also passes through forest that still shows signs of a large 1926 fire.

Cross Big Beaver Creek on the steel bridge. A short spur east reaches the stock and boat camps; the main route continues up the valley. About three miles above the bridge, it enters an old-growth western redcedar grove. Some of those trees are more than 15 feet in diameter and over a thousand years old. Beyond them, the trail skirts active beaver ponds and marshes, where patient hikers may spot beavers, otters, ducks, deer or marsh birds. Sightings aren’t guaranteed, and the wetlands can be buggy. The marsh was designated a research natural area in 1991, so pass through with care.

Seven miles above Ross Lake, the McMillan Creek gorge opens a view toward McMillan Cirque and McMillan Spires. The route’s high point is Beaver Pass, a broad, forested saddle at 3,654 feet, about 13 miles from Ross Lake. John McMillan arrived in the valley in 1884 and made a home here with his wife, Emma, living by trapping, prospecting and packing. He was buried beside Big Beaver Creek in 1922; the place names recall a human history that predates the long wilderness route.

From Beaver Pass, steep switchbacks drop about 2.9 miles to Stillwell Camp on Little Beaver Creek. The Little Beaver junction is about another mile downstream. A boat-assisted semi-loop continues ten more miles down Little Beaver to the Ross Lake landing, but you need to arrange a water taxi in advance; no trail connects the landing to a road. Otherwise, plan your return logistics before setting out. Campsites are no more than about five miles apart, and a backcountry permit is required for every overnight stay; permits are limited. Pets are prohibited west of 39 Mile Camp. The route’s low elevation can make it useful in the early or late season, but its length and remote exit logistics still call for a careful itinerary.