St Hilda's Way

From Hinderwell the way heads inland by Scaling Dam, then reaches Danby before following the Esk Valley through Lealholm, Glaisdale, Egton Bridge and Egton. It continues by Sleights and the Ruswarp and Sneaton area to Whitby, ending at Whitby Abbey above the harbour. The theme is the churches and chapels linked with St Hilda, strung between open moorland and the river valley, and the central section keeps close company with the Esk.

Terrain changes character several times: coastal edges and high heather moor at first, then farmland, woodland and softer valley paths as Whitby draws nearer. A shorter version starting at Danby is sometimes walked by those with less time.

Expect a mix of rough moorland trods, stone slabs, field paths, muddy ground, beck and stream crossings, and many gates and stiles. The route uses public rights of way throughout, but signing is not consistent along its length and some moorland sections can be faint, overgrown or hard to pick out in poor visibility.

Carry a current map and compass or a GPS track and know how to use them. Walkers comfortable with route-finding on open moor will enjoy this most; anyone relying on waymarks alone may lose the line.

Stages are usually shaped around the villages, and reported daily distances differ noticeably between itineraries, so plan your own splits around the accommodation you can secure rather than a fixed schedule. Several settlements along the Esk Valley are served by the railway, which helps with reaching the start, returning from the finish or shortening a day.

Book accommodation and any transfers well ahead, particularly in summer and at weekends, as beds in the smaller villages are limited.

Weather on the exposed moorland can change quickly, with wind, rain and low cloud arriving fast and little shelter between villages. Take windproof and waterproof layers, warm spares, food and water, and a means of navigating without a phone signal.

Strong footwear with grip suits wet stone slabs, peaty ground and rough trods. After heavy rain, becks and field paths can be considerably wetter and slower going, so allow extra time.

Dogs are welcome on the rights of way but should be kept on a short lead around livestock and wildlife, as cattle and sheep are met in fields and on the open moor. If cattle approach while you have a dog, let it off the lead and move calmly aside. Close gates behind you and take water for your dog, as reliable supplies between villages are patchy.

Villages along the way offer pubs, cafes and shops, though opening times can be seasonal and some places close in the afternoons or on quieter days. Whitby has the fullest range of food, accommodation and public transport at the finish.

Check opening arrangements for the abbey site before you arrive so the final steps of the pilgrimage land at the right time of day.