Gibbs Hill to Whariwharangi Bay Loop Track

This is an 18.3 km loop from Tōtaranui over Gibbs Hill to Whariwharangi Bay, then back along the Coast Track past Mutton Cove and Anapai Bay. Allow about 5½ hours of walking; it is classed as an advanced tramping track, so it suits a full day and people ready for a steep inland climb. Start at the Tōtaranui camp office, follow Avenue Road and the Coast Track north, then turn left just beyond the concrete bridge at about 1.4 km. This is the Tōtaranui circuit; a Wainui start or the separate Separation Point spur adds a different route.

After a ford, the Gibbs Hill track climbs for about 3 km, with steep sections. Much of it follows an old fire-access route through open country and dry, regenerating gorse and mānuka rather than sheltered forest. At the ridge junction, turn right toward the summit. The route directions allow about 1½ hours to reach the top. Keep your bearings at junctions: the track branches toward several different park entrances and coast routes.

Gibbs Hill rises to roughly 400 m. From the open ridge, the view sweeps from Nelson around D’Urville Island to Farewell Spit and Golden Bay; on a clear winter day, Mt Taranaki may appear in the distance. This is the high point of the circuit and its main payoff. For a photo, include a strip of ridgeline in the foreground so the islands and long curve of coast have scale.

Descend from the summit and keep right at the next junction for Whariwharangi Bay; allow about an hour from the top. The hut sits in a grassy clearing among regenerating bush, a welcome place to pause before the longer coast leg. It has 20 bunks and needs to be booked for an overnight stay; there is no gas cooking or lighting, so overnight visitors need their own stove and light.

Whariwharangi Hut began as a farmhouse built by John Handcock around 1896. He and his family lived in the valley for 15 years. The homestead was last occupied in 1926, the farm continued until 1972, and the park board restored the building in 1980. Look for its veranda, twin brick chimneys and the original timber staircase and wall panelling. It is a reminder that this northern corner was once working farmland, not just a remote stop on the coast.

From the bay, follow the Coast Track south past Mutton Cove and Anapai Bay to Tōtaranui; this leg takes about three hours. It is a substantial walk after the hill, so leave enough daylight and energy for it. The campground has six amenity blocks and filtered tap water; the camp office has maps and snack items, but there is no meal stop along the circuit.

There is no water on the Gibbs Hill ridges. Fill up at Tōtaranui; water is available again at Whariwharangi and Coast Track campsites. Treat untreated park water because Giardia has been found in some sources. Wasps are more common from December through April; anyone allergic to stings should carry antihistamine. Dogs are not allowed on the track.