Tōtaranui to Separation Point

Tōtaranui to Separation Point is a 14.4 km return walk on the Abel Tasman Coast Track and its Separation Point branch, with 7.2 km each way to the official track end. It links sheltered coves, sandy bays and a wooded ridge before reaching a headland between Golden Bay and Tasman Bay. Allow about 4 hours 30 minutes; the track is moderate, with repeated climbs and beach walking. The stored route follows the all-tide connection around the Tōtaranui inlet and turns back at the maintained track end, before the rough descent to the rocks.

From the campground car park, the all-tide route follows the access road and gravel around the head of the inlet, then rejoins the track in native bush. There is a shorter beach crossing, but use it only when the tide is out; look for the orange DOC marker on the far side where the track resumes. Check the tide information at the campground before setting out. The official distances are measured to each bay from Tōtaranui, which makes Anapai a useful shorter turnaround if you do not want the full day.

The path climbs over a low saddle, then descends through a shady gully thick with nikau palms to Anapai Bay, roughly 45 minutes from the start. The campsite sits above the sandy beach, and toilets are available at campsites. It is a pleasant first pause, but the point is still several kilometres farther on.

Leaving Anapai, the track climbs past tall rata trees and skirts a rocky stretch rather than dropping to the shore. Gaps in the trees open views down to the coast; then the path eases downhill to Anatakapau Bay. Its golden beach runs for about half a kilometre. The cove just north of Anapai and the rock stacks at Anapai are good places to frame the water and granite together; Anatakapau gives you a wider beach view.

At the northern end of Anatakapau, the main Coast Track turns inland toward Whariwharangi Hut. For Separation Point, stay on the beach route, cross the small headland and rocky cove into Mutton Cove, then walk to the far end of that beach. The track climbs the hillside to the ridge and continues to the official end. Keep the turnoff in mind on the way back so you do not follow the inland hut route by mistake.

The maintained track stops short of the rocky headland. The rough descent beyond it is not part of this walk, and the route here ends at the official track end. From the ridge, clear weather opens views toward Farewell Spit across Golden Bay and D’Urville Island across Tasman Bay. Kekeno (fur seals) rest on rocks below, and seabirds use the headland. If you want a different return, a longer coastal ridge route joins the Coast Track above Whariwharangi before coming back toward Anatakapau; it is not included in the 14.4 km out-and-back.

Separation Point, also called Te Matau, marks the division between Golden Bay and Tasman Bay. French explorer Jules Dumont d’Urville named it in 1827 after noting the two bays separated by the point. Along the walk, listen for korimako (bellbirds), pīwakawaka (fantails) and kererū (wood pigeons); shags are often seen around rocky headlands. These are wild sightings, not a guarantee, so give seals and birds room.

There is no food for sale along the track, so carry what you need. Filtered water is available at Tōtaranui campsite; treat water collected elsewhere before drinking. Day walking is free, but campsites such as Anapai and Mutton Cove require advance booking and payment. Dogs are not allowed on the Coast Track. The last 12 km of the road to Tōtaranui is unsealed, though it is suitable for campervans. October to April is the busiest period; winter is quieter but brings shorter daylight, and strong westerlies are common in late spring and summer.