St Mary Peak – Ngarri Mudlanha

St Mary Peak – Ngarri Mudlanha is a 1,171-metre summit on the wall of Wilpena Pound, the vast natural basin at the centre of Ikara-Flinders Ranges. It is one of the range’s defining peaks, and it matters for more than its height: the Adnyamathanha people regard it as central to their creation story and would prefer visitors not to climb to its summit. Make Tanderra Saddle your goal instead. Parks SA describes it as the shorter option and says the views are still spectacular.

The full direct walk from the Wilpena Visitor Centre bushwalking trailhead to the summit is 14.6 kilometres return and takes about six hours. The loop is 21.5 kilometres and about nine hours. Both are serious outings; the saddle is the better choice if you want the mountain views while respecting the Adnyamathanha request.

The route leaves from the bushwalking trailhead in the Wilpena Visitor Centre complex and climbs onto the Pound’s rim. Expect steep stretches over loose, rubbly rock, with a short exposed scramble near Tanderra Saddle. This isn’t a quick roadside lookout: even the shorter objective takes a sustained uphill walk, so it suits hikers who are comfortable with rough mountain paths.

At the saddle, the view opens over Wilpena Pound and the surrounding Flinders Ranges. From the route you can also look north across Aroona Valley and west toward the salt plains. If you’re taking a photo, the view back toward the Pound is broader from the rocky ledges just beyond the saddle sign; getting there means continuing along the rough track, so stop where the ground and conditions feel right.

The longer circuit gives you a different return through the basin. After the exposed upper climb, it descends into forest and crosses the floor of Wilpena Pound, with views of the surrounding ranges on both sides. The route passes Hills Homestead, built in 1888 by the Hills family, who ran sheep here. You can see the homestead from outside and look at its interpretation boards before carrying on through the trees toward the resort.

That change of scenery is the appeal of the loop, but it adds several kilometres and a few hours. Choose it for a full day on foot, not because you think the summit is the only worthwhile destination. The saddle already gives you the high, open outlook that makes this walk special.

Start at the Wilpena Visitor Centre bushwalking trailhead. Rangers recommend leaving by 9 am, or 10 am during daylight saving, and the peak trail closes in December, January and February. Allow the full official time for whichever route you choose, and carry food and water for a long day on the hill. The short route is not a short walk; the loop is a commitment from start to finish.

Check the park’s current trail status before setting out, since weather and seasonal management can affect access. The peak remains the landmark above you either way; the recommended visit ends at Tanderra Saddle, with the summit left unclimbed in respect for Adnyamathanha wishes.