Upper Paddock/Talkington Loop

Overview

This is the South Unit’s big, quiet loop—an officially 15.4‑mile circuit that most hikers budget 8–10 hours to complete. Expect a moderately strenuous day thanks to distance, exposure, and footing rather than constant climbing. Real‑world tracks often land closer to 16–16.5 miles with roughly 1,500 feet of total gain depending on start point and small detours. If you access it from the Painted Canyon area, plan on an extra 4 miles round‑trip.

Route Character

Clockwise is the savvy way to go: climb Upper Talkington first to gain the rim while legs are fresh, then enjoy a scenic traverse over sculpted sandstones and clays before dropping into Upper Paddock Creek for the return. The Paddock side can run wet and sticky with some narrow, steep sections. The loop is generally marked by wooden posts with angled tops, but spacing can be wide—carry a map/compass and an offline track. Note that some crowd‑sourced “shortcuts” create off‑trail segments that require confident navigation; stick to the official loop if you don’t want cross‑country travel.

Terrain, Geology, and Conditions

You’re walking through textbook badlands: layered sandstone, siltstone, and mudstone with seams of dark lignite and patches of bentonite clay. Those pale gray bentonite beds are the catch—dry they’re fine, but when wet they turn into an ice‑rink‑meets‑glue mess. After rain or during freeze/thaw, expect treacherous footing and gumbo mud in creek bottoms. Look for red, brick‑like caps called porcelanite (often nicknamed scoria or clinker), formed when coal seams burned and baked surrounding rock—these tougher layers often armor butte tops.

Wildlife

This loop offers real solitude and real wildlife. Bison are common, prairie dog towns buzz with life, wild (feral) horses roam the drainages, and mule deer are frequent. Give animals a wide berth, be ready to detour if they’re on the trail, and keep your head on a swivel in brushy sections.

Water, Bugs, and Clothing

Plan to carry all of your water. Creek water is heavily used by bison and any spring you might encounter isn’t reliable—treat anything you take and don’t count on it being there. From late spring onward, biting flies and other bugs can be a factor; long sleeves, pants, and repellent help. Pants also save shins from brush on the Paddock side.

Access and Logistics

You can start from trail access points along the South Unit’s Scenic Loop Drive or from a short spur off Government Creek Road on the east side. Starting from Painted Canyon adds roughly 4 miles round‑trip via a connector. Expect minimal shade all day; start early and give yourself cushion for wildlife detours.

Best Time to Hike

Cool, dry weather in spring or fall is ideal. Summer can be brutally hot with little shade, and after any rain the bentonite sections become slick and the creek bottoms turn to glue. Early starts mean better light on the rim, cooler temps, and more active wildlife.

Who Will Love It (and Who Won’t)

If you’re after a longer, less‑traveled badlands sampler with big views and a dash of route‑finding, this loop delivers. If you want a short, straightforward stroll or you’re hiking right after a storm, pick something drier and shorter instead. For an even bigger day, strong hikers sometimes combine upper and lower loops for a ~23‑mile epic.