Muker, Keld and the Corpse Way

A circular walk of 8.5 km (5.5 miles) from Muker, taking in the River Swale, Keld and the old Corpse Road over Kisdon Hill. Allow a minimum of 2.5 hours, and realistically 3 to 3.5 hours with the waterfall detour, photos and a stop in Keld.

The payoff is a genuine mix: walled field paths, a river gorge with a waterfall option, two of upper Swaledale's best known villages, and a high traverse on a road once used to carry the dead to burial.

• Leave Muker on paths across the hay meadows and drop to the river.
• Follow the riverside path upstream past old farm buildings.
• Take the optional out-and-back detour to Kisdon Force if you want the waterfall, then continue into Keld.
• Leave Keld on a short tarmac section, then turn onto the old Corpse Road.
• Climb onto Kisdon Hill and traverse it with wide views down Swaledale.
• Descend steeply back into Muker.

Rated strenuous, roughly 7 out of 10. There is one long sustained climb and a steep descent, and the ground varies from stone flags to rooty, uneven riverside path. Expect narrow stone stiles that are awkward with a big pack, small children or a stiff knee, plus tree roots and sections that turn slippery after rain. This is not a flat stroll and it rewards proper boots and poles if you use them.

The riverside half is sheltered. The Corpse Road section is open fellside with nothing to hide behind, so wind, rain and low cloud hit hard and the views that justify the climb can disappear entirely. Carry a windproof layer even on a warm day, and be honest with yourself about the descent in wet conditions.

Start from the car park next to the bridge in Muker, grid reference SD 91076 97812. Toilets are available in both Muker and Keld. Muker has a pub and a shop, and there is a cafe in Keld, which makes the halfway point a natural break.

Dogs may use the public rights of way but should be on a lead around livestock, and on a short lead from March to July for ground-nesting birds. The meadows are farmed for hay, so keep strictly to the public paths, do not trample the grass, and shut gates behind you.

The climb is long, the descent is steep, and the narrow stiles slow groups down. The short tarmac section out of Keld breaks the mood. Livestock, roots and slick ground all need attention rather than autopilot walking. If that sounds like more than you want, this is a circuit to save for a settled day with time in hand.